larsb said: Only lifepo4 then? And why would s ? They’re not the cheapest cell size? You’d get molicel p42 lithium cell for the same price, 4ah/30A continuous, top performer, brand cell.
skeetab said: Id personally go with a newer cell they are only $4 each and they put out like 45a continuous nowI'm feeling the Lithium-Irons for their long lifespan and safety; my hope is, by building the pack real well that their low voltage and capacity aren't such a hindrance. Because of that, I statted out using the configurator s, s and even the battery hookup s (I haven't done s because there's none I know of in the LiFePO4 chemistry) and found that with Irons, these s were the best for both energy density and discharge with what is available right now though sites like Battery Store.
and you'll get a higher voltage, higher top speed and less sag with li-ion
TrotterBob said: Battery Hookup had those at just over $2 a cell and they were selling them in lots of 20 and *120. They're quite good as they were new cells for a military project that got cancelled. They were testing at or slightly above 3,800mah each.Key statement "had" :lol: Looks like the K2s are out just because of lack of quantitiy.
john61ct said: A123 are the best cylindrical LFP, by FAR.Yeah, by my math a 144-piece purchase from Battery Clearing House (if more than 80% are usable and the don't ship them like they did the wheels) would make a near 1kWh pack for less than $200, which is a hell of a steal. My fear tho, is that such a pack would be capable of shorting 300Amps; I'll use a good BMS thanks to researchers here, but that a LOT of amperage when I'm only trying to use a controller like a Frankenrunner and a leafbike motor. Do you think that's too imbalanced, too many amps for a controller like that? Or could good BMS's help keep everything "controlled"?
Especially longevity, so price per Ah PER YEAR comes out lower, even if your up front investment is triple.
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said: Key statement "had" :lol: Looks like the K2s are out just because of lack of quantitiy.
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said: Yeah, by my math a 144-piece purchase from Battery Clearing House. (if more than 80% are usable and the don't ship them like they did the wheels)
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said: (if more than 80% are usable and the don't ship them like they did the wheels)
CONSIDERABLE SHOUTING said: would make a near 1kWh pack for less than $200, which is a hell of a steal. My fear tho, is that such a pack would be capable of shorting 300Amps; I'll use a good BMS thanks to researchers here, but that a LOT of amperage when I'm only trying to use a controller like a Frankenrunner and a leafbike motor. Do you think that's too imbalanced, too many amps for a controller like that? Or could good BMS's help keep everything "controlled"?
TrotterBob said: accurate in stating the condition of the batteries they sell. I bought quite a few of those s and just one arrived with a near zero voltage. Hardly worth the hassle of having them ship out a single $2 cell even though they would have if I'd asked. So by my count their cells are over 98% useable and even the one flat cell did ok after it was recharged but its not performing like new. The rest of the cells I bought were at 3.28 to 3.27v, meaning they were very close to 50% SOC, which is ideal for storage.Good to know, thanks!
When did Battery Hookup sell wheels? I must have missed that sale.Sorry, it was from Battery Clearing House which sells the A123 cells and sold those wheel and motors! It was from the fail of Jumpbike; they were selling a package deal of 2 350w Bafang Hub motors and 2 Sturmey-Archer IGH 3-speeds in rims with tires for a total around ~$100. Both I and Amberwolf ordered them, and they still have some available for order- we both were missing parts and the box arrived for me, nearly falling apart. I think amber had a wheel bent; I can't find the thread offhand but I can link it later on a different machine if you'd like.
Any 12s or better ebike battery could produce over 300 amps in a dead short. Handle with care.Yep! And I'm very scared of attempting that, because a 64v/300a dead short will kill me fast. I'm not in a super-rush to make this, so I'm going to make a few battery packs beforehand to get the skills and I'm gonna look for safety methods to make best practices before undertaking it. I think i'll likely get something like, sheets of ABS plastic or a similar isolator to "drape" across the terminals as I'm working to keep from touching anything I'm not actively welding. Definitely open to other methods tho.
With LiFePO4 you'll need a BMS with a balancing function thats capable of keeping up with your charging rate so the cells dont go out of balance towards the end of the charging cycle. Unlike li-ion and LiPo cells, LiFePo4 voltages ramp up as they approach full and that can amplify any difference in the state of charge of each cell.
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